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T HE NATIONAL MANUFACTURES OF THE GOBELINS, BEAUVAIS & THE SAVONNERIE
Hugues Menes speaker to the manufacture of the Gobelins

LA SAVONNERIE Tapisserie de la savonnerie pour l'Elysée Paris
Manufacture is founded in 1627 per Louis XIII who installs it on the hill of Chaîllot in an old soap factory transformed by Marie de Médicis into orphanage. This labour shall be used by two lissiers of the name of Pierre Dupont and Simon Lourdet (Dupont accomplished a few years before a voyage in Turkey from where it brought back the technique of the tiedpoint, allowing to weave "velvety carpets in the fashion of the Orient"). Manufacture leaves Chaillot in 1826 to be installed in the Goblins premises where it recovers its own technic of low wrap. Finally in 1968 the workshop is moved in two flats in the building of the "new manufactures". Today 40 lissiers (hand weavers) work with in the Savonnerie.
Technique: The high wrap weaving loom is the same as the one used by Gobelins manufacture. But here the weaver (lissier) carries out a rib tied with his pin, i.e. that he passes alternatively with this thread behind a front warp wire, then behind a back warp wire. He thus forms a node on the back of its work, while keeping a loop on the face which will be mowed to obtain a velvet. The operation will be repeated over the entire length of the chain of the work, Lavage aux Gobelins Lavage while progressing from left to right and always on a front warp wire then behind. It is not thus any Tell me more question here of "duites" (the short lenght of thread making the rib). The heddles are used to bring back temporarily one postponed wire of chain by one to the front. Then are inserted wire of flax between each line of loops and nodes thus carried out. This to ensure the solidity of the carpet, piece of ground per excellence. The lissier progressively mows then his work lines of loops carried out, then will disentangle the hairs thus obtained, horizontally. Finally after having disentangled the motives of the carpet the lissier will arrange his work with the point of his scissors (i.e. which he will rectify the hairs of his carpet by obtaining a perfect same looking like his paperboard -his carton-). The disentangling and arrangement operations were invented by the French carpets weaver and are thus not practised in the East.
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